Six hours south of Bangkok down the Gulf of Thailand coast is the friendly
fishing town of Prachuap Khiri Khan. Set on a gorgeous bay with a
promenade-style seafront, Prachuap has never really succumbed to tourism so
retains plenty of earthy Thai charm. The highlight is the nearby beach of Ao
Manao, about 2km from the town (a tuk-tuk will take you there for £1), where
you’ll find an idyllic sweep of fine sand fringed by tall trees and lapped by
calm waters. Manao (which means lime in Thai) is set on a low-key air force
base, where you have to show your passport at the entrance gate. But don’t let
this put you off: the base helps protect the beach from developers, and is home
to a small colony of cute dusky langur monkeys and dozens of cheap and
excellent seafood stalls. There’s nowhere to stay at Ao Manao, but the friendly
Sun Beach Guesthouse on the Prachuap seafront comes with pool, sea-facing
balconies and wonderful sunrises.
2. The Mangrove, Koh Chang
In the far-flung corner of the eastern gulf coast is Koh Chang national
marine park, where you’ll find a smattering of 50 or so islands and islets in
an area covering 650 sq km. At the centre is Koh Chang island itself, with
hills 700m high, lush jungle and a run of exquisite beaches down its western
shore. Tucked up among them is Bailan Bay, where you’ll find the very lovely
Mangrove bungalow operation amid woodland overlooking the sea. Everything at
the Mangrove is very low-key and natural, with plenty of hammocks and
cushion-strewn hang-out terraces around the resort area. The bungalows are
wooden, fan-cooled affairs with cute furnishings and attached outdoor
bathrooms. The beach can get a bit narrow at high tide, but the atmosphere of
total relaxation and very affordable seclusion more than makes up for that. Add
in excellent food, cold drinks and ice-cream and this is another place where
you might find yourself staying longer than you intended.
3. Kantary Beach, Khao Lak
An hour or so north of Phuket, the Andaman Sea coast stretches out into a
long run of perfect white sand beaches and the Khao Lak national park. There’s
little in the way of urban build here and really the only thing to do is relax
and enjoy the sun. Of the numerous excellent mid-range and luxury resorts here,
Kantary Beach is one of the best, and makes for a great choice for families,
too. The contemporary designer rooms are massive – each comes with separate
living area, sofa bed, mini-kitchen and balcony – but surprisingly affordable,
while the 11km of palm-fringed beach the rooms look on to is perfect for
luxuriant tropical lazing. The resort serves excellent seafood and Thai grub,
has a kids’ play area, a huge pool and also rents out kayaks and
mini-catamarans to guests.
4. OonLee Bungalows, Koh Jum
Most visitors to the Andaman Coast hub of Krabi head straight to the
flesh-pot of Phi Phi or the busy beaches of Ao Nang – and have probably never
even heard of the nearby island of Jum. Those who make it to Koh Jum are
thankful that this somnolent, verdant isle is still off the radar. The beaches
here are not the postcard-perfect sweeps of white sand you’ll find elsewhere,
but the charm is in the Chao Ley (Sea Gypsy) locals, the thick jungle and the
quirkiness. The pick of places to stay is OonLee Bungalows, run by a
Frenchwoman and her Thai husband – who also happens to be a gourmet chef and a
carpenter. The gorgeous homely little bungalows that blend in with the forest
and peer over the sea are a labour of love for the owners. Factor in awesome
food, a welcome as friendly as you’ll find anywhere, plus enough hammocks and
big soft cushions for a lifetime’s worth of lazing and you should be suitably
bewitched.
5. Tarutao national park bungalows
Once home to pirates and political prisoners,
Tarutao, at the southern end of Thailand’s Andaman coast, is now one of
Thailand’s best-protected national parks. The interior is filled with thick
jungle and all manner of beasties, including snakes and monkeys, and the
beaches are extraordinarily beautiful. In terms of places to stay and eat, this
protection keeps things at a basic, though adequate, level and on all beaches the
only choice is simple national park bungalows, with minimal electricity, and
cold water. If you can brave these conditions, you will be amply rewarded, as
stunning Tarutao is kept pretty much as nature intended
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